Tag Archives: reviews

M1A2 Abrams SEP v3: Upgrade Time

Well, the Russians have a new tank. And, for all its failings, the US Army is poking General Dynamics Land Systems for some Abrams upgrades to keep pace. Let’s see what they look like.

A brief aside: A separate program, and therefore not included in the SEP v3 upgrade package is a new anti-armor round. It’s the M829E4 round. It’s an APFSDS-T round, and it uses depleted uranium. It’s awesome, but very classified. Interestingly, I saw this a couple weeks after the T-14 was unveiled in a parade, which I find to be interesting timing. Connect two facts…

Anyway, SEP v3!
GDLS has added an under-armor auxiliary power unit (the UAAPU). It’s in the rear left quarter, replacing part of a fuel tank there. This should help with the inefficiency of the big AGT 1500 when it’s idling. Judging by the exhaust the UAAPU probably uses a very small gas turbine. It’s a good application for one, since turbines are small for their power and reasonably efficient under load. It should also help with providing all of the power needed for today’s fancy electrical systems. The UAAPU should provide enough power to run the turret (and everything in it) with the engine off. About time.

The SEP v3 also brings out the armor upgrades. The turret face and the front hull are better than they were before. How much better? Classified. Hooray for a new composite armor array though. I’m not sure if either section has gotten thicker, since I don’t have time up close with the SEP v3 and older v2 units. But the front armor is better now.

The Abrams has gotten some changes to its roof-mounted remote weapons stations. Tank crews in the field complained that the existing units tended to block their view a lot when the buttoned up. Also, they’re quite large, which makes going under bridges and things annoying. So there are new remote weapons stations that are lower profile and placed better to not obstruct the view as much. Happily, there are two RWSes as standard: one with an M2 for the tank commander and one with an M240 for the loader. I always approved of the number of machine guns on the Abrams. It takes advantage of that fourth man to operate another machine gun if he’s not slinging shells for the main gun. This is a big plus in urban areas.

The Abrams finally sees an upgrade to the M256 that lets it interface with guided rounds. There’s a new breechblock that can now perform this task. So integrating gun-launched missiles (such as the Israeli LAHAT) or airburst rounds can actually proceed. About damn time. The Israelis and the Germans have been able to do this on their 120 mm guns for years now. There are also plans to integrate a new airburst round to replace some other antipersonnel and demolition rounds that are currently in the inventory.

The thermal sights on the SEP v3 have been improved to be ‘third generation’ units. So they can see in both long-wave and mid-wave infrared. This allows for better images on the screens as well as better ability to see through obscurants like smoke or fog. Obvious capability win.

Finally, let’s talk about what’s not included: a new gun. It is not clear to me that the Abrams needs one, given the new round and the changes to the M256 to enable linking with smart rounds. They could deploy the XM360E1. They could also field a new 120mm/L55 gun, though this would require some upgrades to the stabilization system.1 If they’re going that far, they might wait to see/opt for the Rheinmetall 130 mm gun. We shall see. For the foreseeable future, I don’t think this is a huge concern.

No side armor changes have been announced. This is unsurprising to me. It is not feasible to provide protection from MBT main gun rounds on the sides. The concern you can do something about is RPG-type attacks, and the Abrams already has an excellent armor kit for the hull skirts and turret sides from the Tank Urban Survival Kit program.2 These systems are tough and combat proven. No more is needed. The TUSK program also added some optional belly armor to counter the IED threat. Again, more isn’t likely needed in the immediate future.

The SEP v3 still lacks active protection systems. Several are under evaluation, and may show up in a follow-on program. The US Army is particularly keen on Trophy, but there are also some promising systems from Raytheon.

Overall, this is a really good set of upgrade features, and there are more follow-ons coming. There are at least two engineering change proposals floating around out there. For once, this is a reasonably well managed program, introducing phased upgrades to keep an older platform competitive. Way cheaper than designing a new one, but it keeps the factories busy (and therefore open). Also, not trying to do everything at once keeps budgets under control and reduces the chance of the dreaded budget kill.

I would love to compare this to the German Leopard 2 improvements (2A8 anyone?), but nothing concrete has been announced. The US Army is doing a really good job of keeping on top of upgrades right now. These new upgrades should help make sure that the Abrams is a match for any tank out there. I’m also pretty happy about the lack of gold plating so far. Better knock on wood there.

1.) This drove the cost up too much back in the 90s when this was last considered. Back when there was no Russian threat to speak of. The US Army has been happy with their depleted uranium alloy rounds. Which tend to perform about as well as a similar-vintage tungsten-based-alloy round from the L55 gun, so maybe Big Army bet right on this.
2.) Specifically the XM-19 ARAT-1 and XM-32 ARAT-2 reactive armor packages.I’ll have a write-up as soon as I can get more information. There’s not much out there on these, especially on the newer XM-32s.

The Panhard CRAB

France has a long history of building excellent, if quirky, reconnaissance vehicles. Reconnaissance vehicles tend to be small and lightly armed. But the French have always sought to use them as the heirs to the light cavalry tradition, and have armed their recon vehicles appropriately. In some cases, the result is basically a light tank. We’ll look at those later. Today, we’re looking at something quite a bit smaller but still well armed. Today, we look at the petite Panhard CRAB.

The Panhard Crab weighs eight to ten tons, depending on protection level. It is a 4×4 vehicle with some particularly interesting suspension and drivetrain capabilities. It has a crew of three, and a turret that can be fitted with a bunch of armament options.

The turret is designed to be modular. Display models have tended to have turrets equipped with the M242 25 mm autocannon and about 150 rounds. Also available is a turret mounting the M230LF 30 mm autocannon. Note that this is a variant of the M230 chain gun used in the AH-64 Apache. It is chambered in 30×113 mm, not 30×173 mm. Both autocannons are fully stabilized. Another available option is a missile turret. This turret can be configured with four launch tubes for the new French MMP ATGM or the Mistral MANPADS missile. Other missiles could probably be integrated with some extra funds and work. This is where the Crab might suffer a little. It would be nice if it could use the Spike or Javelin missiles. In any case, all turrets have a 7.62 mm machine gun (coaxially mounted for the autocannon turrets) and are unmanned.

The Crab has a few different protection levels available. The heaviest (STANAG level IV) is good against 14.5 mm AP rounds and 155 mm fragments at least 30 m away from the burst. This is a light, easily deployed vehicle. This protection level is pretty typical for a lot of small utility and reconnaissance vehicles. We’ll find a way to deal.

Most interesting is the drivetrain of the Crab. It has an active pneumatic suspension, so it can be lifted for extra ground clearance. Tire pressure is centrally regulated, which helps deal with soft or hard ground. Both axles are independently steerable, which makes the turning radius very small–the Crab can make a u-turn with a 5 meter radius. It has a 320 hp engine, giving a top speed of 68 miles an hour. Finally, it can actually drive sideways by turning both axles to the same side. This is as close to go-anywhere as you can get in a wheeled vehicle. The light weight will also help with ground pressure.

The Crab can accommodate 3 men. It has a battle management system, and comes equipped with all of the networking gear and radios to transmit information to other units. It also has 360 degree camera coverage, to help with information gathering or movement in any direction. Mast mounted sensor systems are also available. Optics or a short-range radar system can be mounted on a telescoping mast.

So what do we think? It’s light for Borgundy, but so are most things that have ‘telescoping sensor mast’ as a factory option. It is well armed, networked, and extremely agile. We’ll take the superlative agility and armament, since it’s as good as it’s going to get in the light reconnaissance vehicle role. Bonus that it resembles Halo’s Warthog vehicle, if that was designed for humans who don’t wear fancy power armor.

Light Reloadable Antitank Shootout: RPG-7 vs. Carl Gustav

It’s time for another head to head. Let’s look at two extremely popular light(ish) antitank weapons.1 In the blue corner, fighting out of Sweeden, is the Carl Gustav Recoilless Rifle. And in the red corner, fighting out of Russia, is the RPG-7. Let’s dig a little deeper into these two weapons and see what we think of them.

The Carl Gustav was designed just after the Second World War. It’s a recoilless rifle, which means it’s got a rifled barrel and it vents propellant gasses backward to counteract the recoil of the round. This recoilless principle allows for a relatively high projectile velocity of 230-290 m/s. This is twice as fast as an RPG-7 rocket, and allows the Carl Gustav to have a longer effective range against fixed targets. Available rounds include: HE, HEDP, HEAT, tandem-HEAT, illumination, smoke, programmable airburst, and flechette. Variants are available (currently for HEAT rounds) with rocket assist for a little more range, or backblast-reduction to allow use in confined spaces, like from within a building. HEAT rounds are rated for penetration of 400 mm of ERA; the Tandem-HEAT version is rated for 500 mm (plus neutralization of some ERA). This is not going to scare a modern tank unless you hit it from the side. It’s more than adequate for older tanks, or for lighter armored vehicles.2 The Carl Gustav has a caliber of 84mm, and of course, all weapons fired must fit in the tube. Since a reasonable first-order approximation of the effectiveness of a shaped charge is its diameter,3 this puts a pretty strong limitation on how much armor you can punch through.4 The standard version of the Carl Gustav is known to the US DoD as the M3 Carl Gustav, which weighs about 19 lbs empty. There’s also a shorter, lighter version, the M4 Carl Gustav, which weighs about 15 lbs empty.

The RPG-7 is somewhat newer, dating back to 1961. Interestingly, the tube is only 40mm, because it holds only the rocket motor. The warhead is fatter than the tube in most cases. This looks kinda goofy, and contributes to the weapon’s relatively poor accuracy at range, since the round is less stable. On the other hand, it means we remove a significant constraint on our warhead design. So while it will turn into the wind, which isn’t what you’d expect, we can fit some really big things onto the RPG-7 without issue. These include the tandem-HEAT PG-7VR rocket, which is rated for up to 750mm of RHA penetration. That’s actually starting to get dangerous for modern MBTs, though it’s still generally considered inadequate for the latest types5. This is a 9.9 lb. rocket, because you can’t cheat physics. Oh well–it means your light antitank weapon still has some bite in it if you happen upon things with treads. Lighter, older, HEAT rockets are also available, as is a fragmetation warhead rocket and a thermobaric warhead rocket. Finally, there’s an interesting bunker-clearing warhead that combines an explosively-formed penetrator with a follow up fragmentation warhead. Weight of the RPG-7 in basic form matches the lightened M4 Carl Gustav at 15 lbs or so. There’s also a Chinese copy, the Type 69, which cuts weight to 12.3 kg. And, if you actually want to apply modern materials to the design, there’s a US company, Airtronic, that’s made a clone called the Mk 777, which weighs only 7.77 lbs, or 3.5 kg.

So let’s break it down. The Carl Gustav has much better range. The RPG-7 (and it’s clones) are much lighter. The Carl Gustav has available Airburst rounds. The RPG-7 has available thermobaric rounds, which could be made for the Carl Gustav, but are unlikely because someone’s likely squeamish. The RPG-7 also has a tandem HEAT warhead that’s still decently formidable, and that’s not likely a capability to come to the Carl Gustav anytime soon. The Carl Gustav has rounds designed to accommodate confined-space operation, but the RPG-7 does not.

What’s our pick? This may shock you, but we prefer the RPG-7. We like theromobarics. We like having a light AT weapon that still has some AT punch left in it. And we like the lighter weight, especially if you’re going to take it on a long patrol. The Carl Gustav isn’t a bad choice by any means, but it’s a little outclassed by it’s Soviet competitor. Now, if range became a bigger issue, like in Afghanistan, then the Carl Gustav becomes worth its weight. But I think Afghanistan is an outlier.

For mechanized troops, for whom the weight is less of an issue, we still really, really like the Panzerfaust 3, since that has a proper antitank warhead on it.

1.) I’m looking at things that can be operated by a single person, and aren’t guided. Interestingly, guided weapon shootouts are a lot less fun to write, because the winner is much more obvious.
2.) This is actually true for the vast majority of light antitank weapons. There are a few (that really stretch the definition of ‘light’), including the Panzerfaust 3 which I wrote about here.
3.) At least, for similar generation designs. Also, I said ‘first order’ so some roughness is implied.
4.) You’ll notice modern weapons that actually are rated to defeat modern armor are significantly bigger in diameter than 84mm.
5.) This was about the armor penetration rating of the standard Panzerfaust 3 rocket. It has since been replaced by an improved model with a more powerful warhead for the antitank role.

Glockblaster Range Report

So all the parts for the Glockblaster are in and it’s assembled. I even added a couple more things: the Glock factory extended slide stop and the Glock factory (slightly) extended mag release. More on those below. Anyway, got it to the range.

WOW.

No really. This thing is amazing. It’s as close as I can get to an actual phaser, blaster, or phased plasma rifle in the 40W range without actually being a fictional character. There’s a bit more flash and noise from the comp, but it’s nothing awful. Once you get used to that, you can actually track the red dot through the recoil arc. It is super cool to keep a target focus and watch the red dot bob a bit in your field of view. So between the comp an the added weight from the weaponlight, the gun doesn’t recoil overmuch. Next to no muzzle flip.

That takes some getting used to. I outran my sights a couple times, simply dealing with a weapon that got ready so quickly. It really, really makes follow up shots a breeze. And with a bit of focus, I could tear a nice ragged hole in the middle of the target faster than ever before.

Will this weapon make you a better shooter? No. Will it give you a whole bunch of advantages and make it easier to shoot fast? Yes, yes it will.

Let’s talk accessories. That covers the comp, the use of the weaponlight as a weight (it’ll probably be great as a weaponlight with the 500 lumens of retina-searing illumination it produces), and the red dot, which you already know I love.

I actually found the Glock factory extended slide stop to be a great choice. It’s just big enough to be noticeably easier to manipulate, but it still won’t get in your way. Gets a thumbs up.

The Glock factory extended magazine catch was made for the FBI. It’s a few millimeters longer than the regular one. Helps with small hands, won’t get pressed accidentally when the gun is holstered. I found it made magazine ejecting a little easier. Fishbreath, who has short thumbs, found it was a significant improvement in being able to easily reach the mag release. So, good choice there.

I haven’t done too much reload practice, but the Freya magwell doesn’t seem to help my time overmuch. I’m probably not quite quick enough yet to notice the equipment improvement being a help.1 But it does help keep my hand nice and high. It will also help prevent your hands from getting pinched by the magazines, if you have big hands.

I also haven’t touched the trigger yet. It’s a stock gen 4 trigger, with the polish of several hundred rounds. I might upgrade this in the future.

There you have it. One of my better pistol projects to date. Even Fishbreath, who doesn’t like Glocks or fancy race gadgets, thought it was great.

1.) See? It’s not just equipment. Duh.

Kit from the other half

Parvusimperator wrote some about his gear, so it’s only fair that I do, too.

Blackhawk! four-pocket chest rig
From everyone’s favorite cheapest decent brand, this chest rig has four large pockets and two small pockets. Each of the large pockets can hold a pair of rifle magazines of your choice, and the small pockets will hold a pistol magazine each.

The design is patterned off of the Chinese Type 81 rig, but isn’t quite identical. In keeping with the Chinese design, the pistol magazine pockets are placed one on each side of the four centered main pockets. All the pockets are secured by velcro. The large pockets are great: they fit the magazines well, and if properly velcroed, secure them to boot. The pistol pockets do what you’d expect: hold magazines. That said, the strong-side pocket is a bit of a pain to get the magazine out of. (See my next item for more on that.)

Anyway, Blackhawk!‘s product seems well-manufactured. They made it out of a properly heavy canvas-y material, which seems to me like it should hold up well under heavy use. (Since I’m only using it for the occasional two-gun match, ruggedness doesn’t matter all that much, but if it comes to a zombie apocalypse, I’m more or less comfortable with it.) At the price I got it for, I certainly can’t complain, especially since it claims it’ll work with AR-15 magazines, too.

Closing out my chest rig thoughts, I had nearly the same experience as parvusimperator: reloads played even less of a role in my time than they did in his. I found myself needing to reload my rifle exactly zero times while running a stage, not counting the stage in which the rifle started unloaded on a table. I could get by with a belt magazine carrier, but I see two obstacles to that: first, nobody makes belt AK mag carriers; second, I like using my ‘duty gear’, as it were, for competition. I’m very unlikely to ever need to use my handgun in a high-pressure non-sporting situation, let alone my rifle chest rig, but my thinking is the same in both cases. I have a limited time budget for practice, in the same way that I have a limited money budget for practice. Why would I spend either on a setup I’ll never use.1

My left front pocket
Rather than try to reload from the strong side pistol magazine pocket on the chest rig, I put my second spare mag into my pocket. The pocket was a little too low for complete comfort, but it’s spacious—I could have put a bunch more mags in, if I was trying to carry my full load from the start—and relatively easy to access regardless.

Would I bother with dedicated pistol mag carriers? On the one hand, I could definitely use a few. On the other hand, my current setup is perfectly acceptable, and I don’t know that I would use mag carriers enough outside of competition to merit the expense.

Unlike parvusimperator, I had to dip into my pistol reload stash on basically every stage. The difference between 15 (and my pistol marksmanship) and 18 (and his) is significant enough to tell. I might have liked having another extra magazine,

Company-issue duffel range bag
It isn’t a range bag by design—it’s just a small duffel with my company’s logo on the front—but a few airplane trips as my personal carry-on item really tore it up. After the shoulder strap fell off, I demoted it to ‘range bag’. Surprisingly, it handles range duty better, and hasn’t gotten any worse since it switched jobs. Would I like something with more padding, more space, and better internal separation? Yes, but this came in at just the right price2.

My glasses
Subpar eye protection, lacking in important qualities like scratch resistance. Ordinarily, your shooting eye protection doesn’t have to be scratch resistant, but I shoot with a wee, short-eye-relief ACOG-style 4x scope, so if my form isn’t perfect, the rifle whacks me in the glasses. My glasses don’t have quite enough anti-scratch strength to take that sort of abuse. I’ll probably get a set of over-glasses eyepro before my next go.

Howard Leight over-the-ear ear protection
I prefer earmuff-style earpro to in-ear things, for more attenuation and clearer indication to others whether your earpro is functioning or not. This one was inexpensive, relatively low-profile, padded over the head, and readily available at my local big-box sporting goods retailer. No complaints here.

1. Unless it’s interesting and historical, like the BritKit.
2. Namely, free.

Parvusimperator Reviews His Competition Kit

Or at least, reviews the stuff he took to the two gun match. Most of this isn’t really “for competition”, but you run the match with the gear you have, which may or may not be the gear you want. It’s better that way: now I know what changes I want to make. Had I gone out and bought a bunch of stuff right before the match, it would probably still be wrong. Anyway, let’s get on with it.

Rifle Mag Holder: Tactical Tailor MAV chest rig
I’m kinda split on this one. On the one hand, I really didn’t need it for the competition. I went to my rifle reload all of once, because 30 rounds is actually a lot, even when you’re double tapping. So I didn’t need a giant chest rig that can hold twelve AR mags. That said, it didn’t drop magazines everywhere. Retention is good. On the other hand, it’s a really nice chest rig. I got the “Two piece complete MAV” kit, which comes with four magazine pouches, each ready to hold three 30-round magazines. It also comes with two large utility pouches and two small utility pouches. So there’s plenty of space to haul things. The ‘Two piece’ part refers to the fact that this chest rig has a front closure, which is a lot easier to get on and off. The small utility pouches are sized for two pairs of handcuffs, or a similarly sized load. The large utility pouches are sized for a canteen, water bottle, 1.5 L hydration bladder or a properly-sized sandwich. The large utility pouches are closed with adjustable buckles; everything else is closed with velcro. I had no problems losing rifle mags from my chest rig.

The MAV is reasonably comfortable loaded up, but if I did that for long periods, I might want to replace the standard straps with the padded kind. The MAV itself is covered in PALS webbing, so you can place the pouches where you like (or swap them out for other pouches).

And yes, the MAV is Berry-amendment compliant.1 Great for a carbine class, a bit excessive for competition. I might get a belt holder for a single 30-round magazine instead, since that should suffice. Especially if I’m also loading up the Surefire Mag-60.2

Pistol Mag Holders: Blackhawk Glock Mag holder, PerSec Kydex Glock Mag holder
I used these because they were the pistol mag holders that I had. They go on your belt. They worked great. I didn’t lose pistol mags, unlike other people. I also didn’t need more than the two on my belt (plus the one in the gun). That said, the PerSec Holder is paddle-style, and while this is great for concealment, it’s less ideal for competition, because it’s rather wide and eats lots of belt space. I’ll want to move that to concealed-carry only, and get more things like the Blackhawk holder for competition.

Eye Protection: Smith Aegis Echo
I got these because I wanted something that met MIL-PRF-31013 and ANSI Z87.1 standards for durability, because I’d rather not lose an eye like Paul von Mauser. I picked the Echos in particular because they’re big, so they fit someone with a large head (me) well, and because they have thin alloy temples, so they work well when worn in conjunction with over-the-ear hearing protection. I usually like that (sometimes doubled up), so I figured this was a good choice. One small complaint is that if you’re not wearing the over-the-ear hearing protection that these are designed to work with, and you tilt your head down, to load a mag, say, these will slide down your nose. Oh well. When worn with muffs, they fit great and are super comfortable. I got these in a kit which came with a clear protective lens, a grey polarized protective lens, and a yellow protective lens. So, all the lenses you could possibly want for high light, low light, and indoor uses. You can swap lenses pretty easily in just a few seconds, and I have to give Smith Optics big props for making an easy-to-use, secure, quick-detach lens system.

Plus, they’re very comfortable when worn with muff-style hearing protection. Very easy to wear through the whole match, or a long class, without discomfort. Strongly recommended if you like over-the-ear hearing protection of any type, or doubling up.

Hearing Protection: MSA Sordin Supreme Pro-X
Yes, these are over-the-ear hearing protection. These are active, or “noise-cancelling” hearing protection. They’re stupidly durable, have excellent battery life, and are beloved by operators everywhere. The whole thing is waterproof. I got these with the upgraded gel earcups. These are absolutely phenomenal. Very wearable all day. When other people take their earpro off during periods when the range is cold, I usually leave these on. They’re that comfortable. Battery life is at least 600 hours of use. These have the regular headband instead of the neckband. That’s less good if you’re wearing them with, say, a helmet, but it is nice in that you can flip them around so that the microphones point backwards, making it easier for you to hear an instructor or range officer. I have absolutely no complaints with these. If you do want to double-up on your earpro, these are still a great choice for the outer component, because you can turn up the volume on non-cancelled noises to compensate for the earplugs.

There are probably those of you out there who are wondering why I would spend about $300 on NRR 18db hearing protection. My first answer is, would so many hardcore operator types wear them if they sucked so bad? In all seriousness, and because I generally dislike being lazy and just appealing to authority, hearing protection works differently against different frequencies. Since MSA is a responsible company, and does not know what frequencies you are going to want protection from when you buy their product, they list the low number. You will get 18 decibels or more hearing protection, depending on the frequency.

So what’s the relevant frequencies for guns, and what noise reduction do we get there? Well, for guns, you probably want to look at the 1-2 kHz range, and go as high as 4 kHz if you’re shooting a bunch of compensators. In that range, the Sordins are going to give you about a 30 decibel noise reduction. 30. Suck it, haters. Maybe that’s why people who have the budget and are hardcore love these things. Also, they’re super comfortable.

If you’re a super-scientific type, and want the really long version, check out this post from Trevor on the Trigger.

1.) I.e. Made in the USA from American-sourced materials.
2.) Just in case you hadn’t gathered, it holds sixty (60) rounds of 5.56 in a nifty quad-stack configuration.

The AR-15 You Should Buy: The Colt 6920

A common question I hear is “What AR-15 should I buy?” This might come from a gun owner new to the platform or someone looking to get more ARs. But fear not! Parvusimperator is here to answer this question for you. For both the new gun owner, and the guy looking to expand his collection, the right answer is the Colt 6920.

Why Colt? Why this old-school looking gun? Why not something cheaper like a DPMS? Why not something with more features people want these days like a ‘mid-length gas system’ or ‘mile-long handguards’?

We’ll get to those. First, a brief bit of background. Don’t worry, it’ll be relevant, I promise. Eugene Stoner developed the AR-15 as a follow on to the AR-10, a lightweight competitor that lost out to what would become the M-141 in the US Army’s competition for a rifle in the new 7.62x51mm caliber in 1957. The AR-15 was designed to use a small-caliber high-velocity round to maximize controllability when firing fully automatic and to be easy to aim across the ranges that infantry combat was generally expected to take place at.2 Anyway, both designs were cooked up while he was working at Armalite, hence ‘AR’, which stood for Armalite Rifle. Armalite was a small company out of Hollywood, California, and it was made to apply the latest high tech aerospace3 materials, like forged aluminum and fiberglass, to the firearms industry. The AR-15 was developed for a contract for the US Air Force’s airbase security forces, but Armalite didn’t have much in the way of manufacturing capability on their own. So they sold the design and the rights to it to Colt, who had plenty of arms manufacturing capability.

This means Colt has what’s called the Technical Data Package, or TDP. It’s the plans for the gun in the sort of nauseating detail that only engineers can appreciate. Materials list, dimensions, and crucially, tolerances. Colt has been forced to send this TDP out to other manufacturers for the process of making M4s for the US Military, but those other manufacturers are contractually forbidden from using the TDP to make guns for civilians. So only with Colt are you getting everything as you’re supposed to be. This is most important with little things involving tolerances. Everyone else can reverse engineer the dimensions, but tolerances are harder to come up with if you don’t have the plans. Which means Colt rifles are going to have a correctly sized gas port,4 among other things.

Colt makes M4s for the Army, and given the desire to not fuck up this crucial contract, they’re going to make them right. So they’re going to make your rifle right too, because it’s not worth the trouble to set up a whole new production line. What does this mean for you? Well, it means that all the critical fasteners, specifically the castle nut and the screws for the gas key are going to be properly staked. Staking is deforming a little bit of metal to prevent something from backing out. You could “just use loctite” on the castle nut, I suppose, though those threads are a trifle fine and not really suited to it. Loctite won’t work on the gas key screws though, since that’s where a ton of heat is going. And if those screws come undone, you’re gun is junk. And fine, on the range, that’s just annoying. But it could mean you’ve lost a match. Or, if you’re using the gun professionally, you could end up deader than Elvis. Don’t end up a dead loser. Stake your gas key screws. Which Colt does for you.

You’re also paying for that US Military grade QC with Colt. Which means a Colt rifle is less likely to have out of the box issues. They build their carbines right and inspect every one.

All that said, there are some downsides. The 6920 has exactly two differences from an issue M4. First, it’s got a 16″ barrel to comply with the damnable NFA laws about barrel length. Second, there’s no burst fire/autofire functionality. Those are the only differences. This means the stock is pretty basic, the pistol grip is that infernal A2 jobber that I hate, and you get boring round handguards. Fortunately, the stock and pistol grip are easy to swap out, and that’s fine, because those are intensely personal choices. The handguard contains two heat shields, as is right and proper and standard issue. But it predates all those cool accessories, and it’s not free float5. You also get a fixed front sight block. On the one hand, that’s good, because it’s held in place with two pins. It isn’t going anywhere. On the other hand, that’s going to get in the way of all kinds of handguards you might like to mount.

So even though I’d caution that the stock handguards handle heat of a good extended shooting session very well, and you probably don’t need to attach a ton of crap to your carbine, and that the free float obsession is silly, and that the money spent on a fancy handguard might be better spent on ammo or a class or a good optic, you’re still gonna want one. No problem, I’ll enable you and tell you how to make it work. You’re almost certainly going to need to remove the stock barrel nut, or at least the delta ring and handguard cap, which is going to entail removing the FSB among other things. No problem. When you’ve removed the FSB, you can actually cut the sighting portion off with a hacksaw, file/dremel it to fit under your new handguard without spoiling the gas-collecting bit, and then refinish it with some grill paint. It’s so easy a caveman can do it. Seriously, it’s super easy. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look professional, it’s going to be under a handguard anyway. Make sure it fits, don’t cut the gas part open, and you’re fine.

Colt even will oblige you by doing this from the factory on the 6920 OEM2 model. This rifle ships with no stock, no handguard, no delta ring, no handguard cap, and no trigger guard, so you can swap these parts out yourself. The gas block is cut down and reparkerized from the factory. (This is a nicer way to do it than using grill paint, but grill paint is way easier and cheaper for the amateur). The OEM2 model still has the A2 handguard, because that holds in the spring and detent for the safety, so it has to ship with something there.

As for midlength gas, I don’t get the fuss. The rifle and carbine length gas systems are proven with an absolutely ridiculous number of rounds. It will work. Always. Midlength seems to work too. It’s not as proven. It might be “softer shooting”, but that’s very subjective. Plus, we’re talking about 5.56mm here. This is not an elephant gun. This is an easy rifle to shoot. Really. It is. And just in case, you can always add a comp to reduce muzzle rise that little bit.

So, what have we learned today, class? Stop overthinking it. Stop worrying about it. Just buy a Colt. And ammo. And quality mags. And get some range time.

1.) It’s still probably the best battle rifle of the era on a technical basis, but that’s another story.
2.) For more on small caliber high velocity rounds and why they’re great, see here.
3.) Armalite was funded by Fairchild Aircraft. Back in those days, California manufactured actual things like airplanes, and not just stupid.
4.) Colt does not drill out a giant gas port so that your gun will function correctly with crap ammo. The US army doesn’t use the worst reman and lowest quality dumping ground ammo. Maybe you shouldn’t either.
5.) Insert loud sigh here. I don’t understand the obsession with free floating for 95% of rifle shooters. Most people shoot at a range of 100 yards or less, with at best milsurp M855 or M193 ammo, or possibly that underpowered crap I mentioned above, at targets rather larger than a man’s torso, but god forbid their handguards touch the barrel. Seriously, it doesn’t matter. There are more important things to worry about and bigger fish to fry, like proper technique and practice. And if you’re sitting on a bench trying to split a gnat’s ass at 100 yards with your entry-level carbine and cheap chinese knockoff optic, you’re also being dumb. Get off your butt.

Fishbreath Watches: Zootopia

I went into Zootopia with moderate expectations—I had heard good things, but even as a fan of animated movies, I wasn’t expecting anything to boggle the mind. Ultimately, I was still expecting a kids movie with crossover appeal.

This is not what Disney delivered. Zootopia starts out a cheerful-seeming puff piece; by the end, it has taken on an almost noirish feel, telling a pitch-perfect buddy cop story in an exquisitely-detailed world. I can’t say much more without giving away plot points, and the plot is so well-crafted I would feel guilty doing so, but really. If you’re skeptical, fear not: it is not what the previews suggest it is. It’s much better. Go see it. I have not yet heard anyone credible claim to be disappointed.

Done? Cool. I’m going to employ a piece of sorcery most arcane known as ‘the fold’ to hide possible spoilers from casual readers. (Very minor—I’m extremely allergic to spoilers. If you don’t mind non-specific remarks about the flow of the plot through the three acts, you’ll be fine.) Join me on the other side.

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Parvusimperator reviews the T-14 Armata MBT

By popular demand, I am reviewing Russia’s latest Tank Of Doom, the T-14 Armata. While I usually wargame with the Russians as the opposition, as per Cold War tradition, we have more in common than you might think. We both love realpolitik, nuclear weapons, and tanks. Lots of love for tanks. We both adore tanks, expect and demand that they be the heavy hitters in combat, and scoff at the idiots who think their time is through. So let us look at the latest design from a fellow tank lover.

In many ways, the T-14 Armata is a recognition that something has to give. The Russians saw in the first Gulf War what happens when their T-72s got overmatched and had their armor penetrated: the reserve ammo cooked off, immolating the crew and sending the turret flying into the air like a jack-in-the-box. No problem, they said. This was a mere “monkey model”1 T-72. They had big, scary T-72BU,2 with the high-end Kontakt 5 ERA, that was effective at reducing the penetrating ability of APFSDS rounds and could also stop HEAT rounds without a dramatic increase in weight. Keeping the tanks relatively light was very important to the Russians, because the bridge infrastructure in Russia and the former Soviet Union was not very good, and just can’t take the weight of a fully kitted out Leopard 2A7. Plus it’s a lot easier to move bridging equipment when it has less weight to support.

But then came Chechnya, where veterans knew to shoot multiple rockets at the ERA modules, since they don’t do multihit capability. And then the West developed rounds that could get through Kontakt 5 without issue. Better modules and more base armor was needed. The cycle was to begin again, but those bridges weren’t going to get stronger on their own. Faced with strict weight requirements, the Russians decided to take the crew out of the turret. Putting them all in the hull meant less frontal armored area, which meant less armor weight. This was something confronting Western designers too–designs for the next tank made in the late 80s in the US and West Germany had a similar layout. But the Russians hit the wall first. Plus, the Russians have always been willing to try new things in their tanks.

In many ways the Armata is a profoundly Western-style tank, though it still is very light at under 50 tonnes. It has a properly strong front hull armor of what appears to be composites and steel, and it’s rated for protection right up there with its Western rivals. It is, however, not considerably better than them as far as frontal armor estimates go. There’s an all new 125mm gun, the long-barrel 2A82-1M, which has a 32 round autoloader, an all-new APFSDS round with a longer penetrator, and an all-new gun launched ATGM round. There’s a 1,500 hp diesel, though it’s in a goofy and questionable X-configuration. And there’s modern looking thermal sights for the commander and the gunner. Of the seven sets road wheels, the first two pairs and the last pair have adjustable suspension. And, straight from the factory, it has a missile approach warning radar, and hard and soft kill active protection systems3. The sides of the hull appear to have ERA skirts, though they might just be composite modules. The roof is well armored, but I’m uncertain if this contains ERA or not.

That said, the tank is brand new, so many questions remain. How good are the Russian thermal viewers: are they second-generation or third-generation? How good is the fire control computer? Can it do automatic target tracking? IFF? Can the radar be used for finding ground targets? How reliable is the new engine/transmission4 setup? How much armor is on the turret? The outer shell is clearly not tough, but there must be armor behind it or else it would be super easy to achieve a mission-kill. But you don’t need much of an armor profile internally to protect the gun, so maybe the outer shell is just for the radar and APS. And how well will the unmanned turret design work in war (or at least in exercises)? They’re gambling heavily that technology can overcome the loss of situational awareness, though to be fair, so are the Germans with the Puma IFV. Of course, there are some classified things I’d love to know too, like just how good is the main gun compared to a Rheinmetall 120mm L55, and just how good is that armor.

There is one other thing that bothers me presently, and that is how many will the Russians actually buy? They have an awful lot of new weapons programs, and while labor costs are certainly cheaper in Russia, this is a lot of new technology. It won’t be substantially cheaper than a Western tank program of similar vintage with good management, e.g. K2 Black Panther.5

But let’s get to business, and the three million ruble6 question. Would we buy one? On the one hand, politics and NATO might intervene. On the other hand, Russia will sell to anyone, and deferring to politics would be the ultimate cop out. So, let’s set that aside. Would we buy?!

In terms of raw capability, it is similar to Leopard 2A7. A worthy competitor, but not massively better than either, at least on paper and without knowing classified information all around. In terms of cost, it is similar to Leopard 2A7, high but manageable. But ammo is stored entirely separate from the crew, so it is more survivable than either. And hard kill APS are built right in. Electrics should be good, and if not, there’s a long history of adding French and/or Israeli electronics to Russian stuff. The only question might be production, but maybe we could make like India and become a partner in production with a big order to see that it actually gets done.

So would we buy one? Сделка?!

Oh yeah. We’d be all over it.

Uralvagonzavod? Сделка.

1.) i.e. a watered-down export version. The crap you sell to dodgy “friends” like Saddam Hussein, not the good stuff you keep for yourself.
2.) Better known as the T-90.
3.) So, automatically triggered visual/infrared screening smoke to hide the tank, and some kind of mini grenade to destroy missiles.
4.) It’s a twelve-speed transmission, which seems needlessly complicated to me. Also, the previous Russian diesels are all descended from the same V-12 engine family.
5.) While a simple currency conversion of the quoted price doesn’t bear this out, the ruble has lost a lot of value against the dollar recently. If we convert to an intermediate, fixed value commodity in both places (e.g. gold or big macs) as an intermediate step, we get a price that is near as makes no difference to that of the K2 Black Panther.
6.) The top prize on Сделка?!, the Russian Deal or No Deal game show.

More on That Kat Dame

A few more thoughts on that dame Fishbreath is taken with.

I got her back in New York, before I became the AR guy that I am today. I figured I should have and get familiar with an AK. So I picked out a reasonably-priced WASR from my local gun shop. I picked carefully and got lucky. Maybe mine was made on a Tuesday. Maybe the apes at Century Arms were out of vodka when they assembled mine. But they sight and gas tube aren’t canted at all, and the rifle runs great. And doesn’t look dopey. Perfect, right?

A few range trips later, and I had my answer: no. You see, I had already bought an AR, so I knew what this fancy new thing called “er-go-nom-ics” was. And the AK didn’t have it. So, like any good American with a credit card and an internet, I got to work trying to fix everything that I could that I found wrong with it.

PROBLEM: The safety.
The stock AK safety is pretty crap. It’s awkward and hard to manipulate. It has very small tabs that are hard to get a good purchase on. Plus, it’s nearly impossible to manipulate without taking your strong hand off of the fire control position. And taking your strong hand off that position is a Cardinal Sin in the Orthodox Church of Tacticool. You can’t look derpy at the range! Plus, it feels dumb.

SOLUTION: The Krebs Mk. VI safety
Fishbreath has already gushed on about this. There’s not much more to tell, it does exactly what it says it will. Now you can use your trigger finger to manipulate the safety easily and comfortably without removing it from the fire control position. Perfect! There’s also a notch for locking the bolt back administratively if you need to. You can’t use this as a last-round bolt hold open like you’d find on an AR though. That’s not moddable onto an AK.

PROBLEM: The Pistol Grip
Ugh. This thing was crap. It was tiny and uncomfortable and had no grip at all. No grip, I tell you! Maybe it was designed for Russians, wearing big gloves and who have tiny hands. I don’t know. All I know is it doesn’t work with my hands.1 It sucked.

SOLUTION: The Hogue Pistol Grip
This thing is awesome. There aren’t a ton of aftermarket grips available for the AK, but Hogue makes the best I’ve found. Comfortable and grippy.

PROBLEM: The Charging Handle
So the stock AK charging handle is a little piece of metal that curves forward a bit. It’s small, and if you grab it in a hurry you’re liable to jam your palm with it. Especially if you’re using your support hand to charge the gun like a cool kid. After a few attempts to go quick ended in pain and cursing, I had to fix it.

SOLUTION 1: Rubber Nubbin
This came in the box for my WASR. Didn’t know what it was for until I smacked my hand a couple times. Ow. It sort of helped. The charging handle didn’t hurt, but it was still damn small. And the rubber nubbin had a tendency to fall off. Eventually it started falling apart, and I looked for something better.

SOLUTION 2: Haji Cartridge-Handle
I took a spent casing and bashed it into place with the back of a magazine. Say, maybe them Ruskies had a point with these damned clunky, heavy-ass magazines. That was better! Now, I had a charging handle that was a lot easier to grab. It still fell off a lot though. And bashing it on only got me so far before it got all deformed and I had to scavenge another cartridge. Screw that. This is America, not Fallujah. I can do better.

SOLUTION 3: Tromix Charging handle
I found this bolt on jobber somewhere on the internet, and it’s just what the doctor ordered. It’s big, and knurled, so you can get a good grip, even if you’ve got gorilla hands. When I first put it on, it rattled a bunch, until I noticed they included a vial of red loctite. “Light bulb,” said I, and I slathered the tromix bit with the stuff, torqued the bolt down as hard as I could and let it sit. Perfect. No wobble.

PROBLEM: The Stock
The factory stock was some cheap laminate stuff, with lame finish. It was also wicked short. I’m not the tallest guy around, but I wanted more length of pull. At least when I’m not wearing three parkas and body armor.

SOLUTION: K-Var ‘NATO Length’ stock
Perfect! A stock for us apes. It’s polymer, adds about 1.4″ to the length of pull, was fixed so it was stupid-state compliant, and was cheap. It took a bunch of work to fit, but never say my Marine Uncle Sam2 didn’t teach me anything.

PROBLEM: The foregrip
The basic foregrip was made with more shitty Romanian laminate. And more than two mags at a good pace made you rue the day you forgot to take your gloves to the range. Again, it would also be nice if someone could add some freaking ergonomics to the front end of this stupid thing.

SOLUTION: Hogue Foregrip
Man, Hogue makes some nice grips. These have a palm swell even. And a heat shield! Yeah, just like on your M4. Because we Americans like to shoot a lot, and it’s sometimes not super cold here. Who knew? Anyway, this is so much better.

PROBLEM: The Sights
Are they intended to actually be used, or are these just for show. Seriously, they’re slow and imprecise, and the sight picture is terrible.

SOLUTION 1: White out and a file
I put some white out on the front sight, and took a triangular file to carefully open up the rear notch a bit. This actually helped quite a bit. Highly recommended if you like iron sights. You weirdo.

SOLUTION 2: Clamp-on Rail
The WASR comes with one of those russian side-clamp things. So I got a bit of rail that used the interface and put a red dot on that.
Perfect, right? No. Not at all. It’s super awkward because the Nato-length stock extends down quite a bit. Plus, my red dot had a mount on it to bring it up in line with AR-type iron sights. Super awkward. And ‘chin welds’ are retarded, so back to the drawing board I went.

SOLUTION 3: Ultimak Railed Gas Tube
This thing was a right pain to install, but it’s sturdy and gets the red dot down close to the barrel where it’s easy to pick up and still have a cheekweld. Also great if you want a convenient place to mount a light. It does get hot though, so be sure to never actually do much shooting outside of Siberia.

PROBLEM: Muzzle Device
My WASR was bought behind enemy lines. So it had a thread protector that was silver soldered on. But eventually I brought my rifle to Freedom and Real America, and I needed a muzzle device. But none of my usual suspects for AR competition brakes made anything with the right threads. Again, I hit up K-Var and found an AK-74 pattern muzzle device sized for the 7.62x39mm round. Add an adapter, and we’re good to go! It even works pretty well.

Eventually though, I found I spent more time at the range shooting my ARs, and wanted to consolidate calibers a bit. So, I sent Kat to Fishbreath as part of a wedding gift sale.

Better treat her right, Fishbreath.

1.) Fishbreath has called these “gorilla hands” on more than one occasion.
2.) No really. I’m not just super patriotic. I do have an Uncle who’s name is Sam and who served in the Marine Corps as a sniper. Great guy.